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Running head: Mt. Everest Tragedy Case Study
Mt. Everest Tragedy Case Study
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The case study of Mount Everest in 1996 describes a tragic loss of lives as
expedition teams attempted to climb to the summit of Mt. Everest. Although multiple
teams were at Mt. Everest in May 1996, the case study focuses primarily on three
climbing expeditions and their endeavor to reach the summit. Adventure Consultants, led
by Rob Hall, Mountain Madness led by Scott Fischer and the IMAX team, led by David
Breashears. Climbing Mt. Everest is a dangerous and physically demanding experience
under the best conditions for even the most skilled climber, due to the treacherous
landscape, high altitude and dangerous weather conditions. In addition to the physical
conditions and complex logistics, the uniqueness of the individuals undertaking the climb
creates additional challenges. Analysis of the leadership styles and team dynamics
discussed in the case study demonstrate additional challenges faced by the expedition
teams climbing Mt. Everest. The leadership styles and group dynamics negatively
impacted communication among the team members.
In the case study of Mt. Everest, glimpses of the different styles of leadership
provide insight into various styles of leadership and how it impacted the climbing
expeditions. According to McShane and Von Glinow (2013), “leadership is about
influencing, motivating, and enabling others to contribute toward effectiveness and
success of the organizations of which they are members (p. 350). Although there are
competencies that are inherent with leadership such as skills, knowledge, and aptitudes,
the primary leadership competencies are related to “personality, self-concept, drive,
knowledge of the business and cognitive and practical intelligence” (McShane and
Glinow, 2013 p. 353). High levels of extroversion and conscientiousness are strong
predictors of successful leaders. Leaders also tend to have a consistent and confident
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self-evaluation, including high self-esteem, self-efficacy and internal locus of control and
identify themselves as a leader (McShane and Von Glinow, 2013, p. 353). Drive is
described as the leaders‟ inner motivation to pursue goals and to encourage their team to
accomplish team and organizational goals. Leaders tend to have a strong inner
motivation, a high need to achieve and a desire for socialized power in order to achieve
organizational goals. In addition to leaders‟ personal qualities, a leader must have a
strong knowledge of the business. McShane and Von Glinow describe business
knowledge as a “tacit and explicit knowledge about the company‟s environment”, which
enables them to make more intuitive decisions. Cognitive and practical intelligence
enables the leader to process large amounts of complex information in order to solve
problems in their work environment by adapting to various situations or selecting
appropriate environments. Emotional intelligence is also important for a leader in order
to monitor his own emotions as well as others‟ emotions and to use the information to
guide his decisions and actions. Each of the team expedition leaders exhibited strong
leadership competencies but demonstrated different styles as well.
Rob Hall (Adventure Consultants), a thirty-five year old New Zealander, was
described as being the potential “Mayor of Base Camp” due to his commanding presence,
intensity and focus. Although he is described as having a sense of humor, his confidence
and climbing skills served him well in leading past expeditions. Hall had successfully
taken thirty –nine amateur climbers to the summit. According to the text, “could not be
in safer hands and was perceived as the best in the industry.” He was also noted for
being extremely organized in the way he ran his expeditions. His marketing material
describes his company as “the world leader in Everest climbing”.
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Hall controls his team and directs their schedule of eating, sleeping and climbing. Hall is
described as meticulous in his planning and attention to detail. Because of Hall‟s
reputation, he hired seven well-respected Sherpas who also were loyal to him and
respected his abilities. According to the behavioral perspective of leadership, Hall‟s
leadership style would be considered task-oriented rather than people-oriented as his
focus was on setting goals and deadlines, clarifying procedures and planning activities.
He also is a charismatic leader with a sense of humor combined with “unmistakable
intensity and focus”. His group is instructed that „his word is law on the mountain‟. Hall
demonstrates both expert and referent power in his leadership role.
The American leader, Scott Fischer, (Mountain Madness), age forty-one is also an
excellent climber whose “credentials are impeccable” (Breashears, Hansen and Van der
Hayden, 2011, p.2). However, for his Mountain Madness guiding company, it will be the
first expedition to Mt. Everest. The case study describes him as „physically impressive‟
and also having a „magnetic personality‟. Fischer‟s demeanor is more easy-going and
less imposing than Rob Hall‟s, however, his colleagues state that he is also „charismatic‟.
While Hall controls scheduling and training and is involved in every detail of the
expedition, Fischer is more laid back and is more flexible with his team members‟
schedule. Rather than coordinate group acclimation training, he allows everyone to
acclimate individually. Fischer tends to be more people-oriented than task-oriented.
Although his company is not as well known as Hall‟s company, he also demonstrates
expert and referent power.
The leader of the IMAX Expedition, David Breashears is also an American who
has climbing experience and had previously broadcast live television pictures from the
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summit in 1983. Breashears describes himself as a micromanager. His assistant leader is
Ed Viesturs whose reputation for reliability and resourcefulness earned him the name
“Steady Ed”. On May 8, Breashears consults his senior leaders Viesturs and Schauer
because of the concerns regarding the strong winds and the number of people climbing.
Although it is tempting to proceed, their instincts and experience enable them to make a
difficult decision, but one that made among all three of the men based on their knowledge
and experience. Even though Breashears wonders if they made the right decision later
and is almost embarrassed to tell Rob Hall about the delay, his cautiousness and the
leadership team decision-making proved to be a wise decision. He also demonstrated
leadership in making the difficult decision that one of his clients could not continue the
climb, even though her climb to the summit would have increased the IMAX marketing
in Japan. Breashears realized he could lose publicity and financial profit, but he was
concerned about her physical condition and made an accurate assessment of her ability to
climb to the summit, even though she wanted to continue. Breashears describes himself
as a „micromanager‟ and from the case study description, appears to be detail-oriented
and goal-oriented. Although he is an experienced climber and cinematographer, he does
not stand out as dramatically as Hall and Fischer in their leadership roles. However,
Breashear assembled a team with diverse talents to accomplish the team goal of obtaining
IMAX footage from the summit, which will be a “technical and logistical feat”. He has
anticipated and planned for emergencies such as paying for extra oxygen bottles and
obtaining a second permit in case it was needed to accomplish their climb and ultimate
goal. Breashears also relied on his senior leaders such as Ed Viestears, who also
demonstrates expert power and knowledge. Breashears consults with his two other
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leaders when he has to make tough decisions, recognizing the value of divergent thinking
and problem-solving. For each of the leaders, although reaching the summit was the
ultimate goal, developing an effective team may have had a positive impact on reaching
their goal.
The tragedy on Mount Everest clearly illustrates the many issues associated with
team dynamics that can negatively impact group processes and goal achievement.
McShane and Von Glinow define teams as „a group of two or more people who interact
and influence each other and who are mutually accountable for achieving common goals
associated with organizational objectives, and perceive themselves as a social entity
within the organization (McShane& Von Glinow, 2013, p 246). Even though the
expedition groups were referred to as „teams‟, they lacked many of the characteristics
typically related to teams and teamwork. Although the teams had the same goal of
reaching the summit, each individual within the expedition had their own personal
agendas for accomplishing their goal and were more focused on achieving their
individual goal rather than focusing on an overall team goal. For example, several of the
individuals in the Adventure Consultants Team such as Hansen and Weathers had
medical issues that complicated their chances of reaching the summit. Each was
determined to accomplish their goal even if it impacted the other team members and
caused additional risk for the group. Anatoli Boukreev was supposed to function as a
guide, but because his goal was to climb without the bottled oxygen, he had to head back
down the summit quickly and return to camp, rather than serve as a guide. However, the
IMAX team appeared to function more smoothly as a group, possibly because of their
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common goal of producing the IMAX footage. Effective teams work towards a common
goal with the priority being the entire group and accomplishment of group goals.
“When developing a team, it helps a great deal to have some basic sense of the
stages that a typical team moves through when evolving into a high-performing team.
Awareness of each stage helps leaders to understand the reasons for members‟ behavior
during that stage, and to guide members to behavior required to evolve the team into the
next state “(http://managementhelp.org/grou/dynamics-theories.htm). As McShane and
Von Glinow (2013) state, teams typically proceed through several developmental phases
before evolving into a high functioning group (p. 235). Developing relationships with
each other and developing trust in each other is important in developing roles and
behaviors of the group. Working together over a longer period of time helps them to
develop mutual understanding and effective group behaviors. Particularly in the
Adventure Consultants team and Mountain Madness team, the team members barely
knew each other and had not spent time developing as a group before the Mt. Everest trip.
The group had not had the opportunity to gather over periods of time to develop the
organization and team cohesion needed to cope with the extreme conditions of the climb.
One model describes team development as moving systematically through stages called
forming, storming, norming and performing. The stages describe a team getting to know
each other and developing expectations and boundaries of behavior in the forming phase.
Establishing norms and experiencing interpersonal conflict occur in the storming stage.
In the norming stage, teams establish roles, agree on team goals, form team mental
models and develop cohesion (McShane and Von Glinow, 2013, p. 237).
http://managementhelp.org/grou/dynamics-theories.htm
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Without having the opportunity to develop as a team , Hall and Fischer‟s expeditions
appeared to lack team cohesion. Team size may have been a contributing factor in
developing a cohesive team. Smaller teams tend to be more cohesive than teams with
larger numbers of members since it is easier to agree on goals and coordinate work
activities (McShane and Glinow, p. 246). Highly cohesive teams develop better
relationships and are sensitive to others‟ needs in addition to sharing information more
frequently, committing to team goals and providing social support in stressful situations.
In addition, highly cohesive teams are comfortable addressing conflict, raising questions
and offering different opinions. When conflict arises, the team resolves their differences
effectively and respects divergent thinking of other team members. Hall had made it
clear that his “word was law on the mountain” and he would not tolerate dissension.
Both Hall and Fischer had stated that the turnaround time was a definite, unbreakable rule
however, when the turnaround time arrived, no one spoke up to question Hall or Fischer
or recommend that for the safety of the group, they needed to descend to camp.
Breashears‟ team leaders had a difficult decision to make when they altered their
climbing schedule. However, Breashears consulted with his two other leaders, discussed
options and although they hated delaying the climb, they relied on their experience,
knowledge and instincts to make the decision and discussed their decision with their
team. The IMAX team focused on the team goal of achieving the climb and obtaining
the best results for the IMAX footage.
Any relationship, including the relationship among team members depends on a
certain degree of team trust. Trust refers to positive expectations one person has toward
another person in situations involving risks (McShane & Von Glinow, 2013, p. 242). The
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group members trusted their own leaders immensely but had not developed trust in each
other or in their own ability to speak up when questioning a decision. The teams did not
have open communication that encouraged discussing problems and concerns that may
have determined a revision in plans as the conditions changed. Although Fischer had
hired Boukreev to serve as a guide and work with the team members, his aloofness and
poor English contributed to his lack of interaction with the other team members. Fischer
confronted him that he had hired him to “mingle with the team – not just to work hard
high on the mountain”. The expedition members trusted their leaders and were very
dependent on the leaders, but had not developed the team cohesiveness needed to
function and communicate as a high performing team.
Cohesive teams are able to communicate openly with each other, even while
expressing concerns or questioning behaviors. The ability to communicate openly and to
address potential conflicts are valuable characteristics in achieving team goals.
Recognizing the value in divergent thinking helps leaders and their teams evaluate
situations and potential alternatives for problem-solving. Cohesive teams are able to
address conflicts effectively. Although conflicts can have a negative impact, conflicts
can also lead to better decision-making, by testing the logic of arguments and questioning
assumptions (McShane & Von Glinow, 2013, p. 318). Conflict can also lead to
additional responsiveness in changing environments and stronger team cohesion.
Constructive conflict exists when the discussion is centered on the issue while showing
respect for various opinions offered by individuals. The Mt. Everest teams would have
benefited from open communication regarding their plans and alternatives. For example,
since Hall had reinforced that his „word was law‟ and that discussion was not an option,
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team members were not encouraged to express opinions. In both Fischer and Hall‟s
team, the group had not developed the team trust or cohesiveness needed to encourage
open communication and conflict resolution. Strong team cohesion promotes trust and
open communication and the ability to address conflict constructively in a respectful
manner, while honoring the opinions of others. Supportive team norms also encourage
openness and honest discussion in order to resolve conflict, address problems and
communicate concerns.
McShane and Von Glinow (2013) state that “communication is the lifeblood of all
organizations…” (p. 260). Teams rely on open communication, team cohesiveness and
trust in order to work effectively towards their goal. Achieving the ambitious goal of
climbing Mt. Everest brought together a group of individuals led by experienced and
competent leaders. Each leader demonstrated his own unique leadership style which
impacted the formations of the teams and the communication among the team members.
Although each individual team member as well as the leaders focused on the goal of
reaching the summit of Mt. Everest, the team members did not question decisions which
affected the safety of the entire team. In retrospect, the leadership styles and the team
dynamics impacted open communication which may have affected the outcome of the
tragedy on Mt. Everest.
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References
Breashears, D., Hansen, M., Van der Hayden, L., (2011). Tragedy on Everest, INSEAD –
The Business School for the World., 1-15.