S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 9 THE
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MILLENNIALS
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CALENDAR
S H O P It’s been more than four decades since Giorgio Armani shook up the fashion world with his refined yet relaxed take on traditional suiting (which was immediately embraced by Hollywood; see Richard Gere’s perfectly tailored looks in American Gigolo). The designer’s New Normal capsule, in stores now, takes inspiration from those now- classic designs and advertising campaigns by embracing the same soft-lined tailoring—albeit with a modern twist. (Blazer, $2,295, pants, $1,295, flats, $1,095, all, Giorgio Armani, Giorgio Armani, NYC)
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L I S T E N Folk-rock band The Lumineers burst onto the scene in 2012, when their first single, “Ho Hey,” could be heard in just about every coffee shop across America for months on end. On September 13, they’ll release their third full-length studio album, III, which contains nine songs bundled into three “chapters” that together tell a story about family, addiction, and love.
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S H O P Etro is synonymous with colorful paisley prints, but the brand’s Pegasus logo, created in 1968, is just as iconic. This season, the house honors that heritage by reissuing its Pegaso Bag as an on-trend cross-body. (Handbag, Etro, $1,140, select Etro boutiques nationwide)
S E E Louis Vuitton has wowed fans by revealing the incredible skills involved in crafting the house’s signature leather goods via immersive exhibits like Volez, Voguez, Voyagez. The latest, Louis Vuitton X, explores 160 years of the maison’s history through collaborations and interactive digital experiences, spread across 10 rooms in a venue not far from Vuitton’s North Rodeo Drive outpost. (Through September 15, 2019; louisvuitton.com)
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R E A D I N G
L I S T
R E A D The 14 perceptive essays in Leslie Jamison’s Make It Scream, Make It Burn are divided by category—journalism, criticism, or memoir. Touching upon everything from the
“loneliest whale in the world” to Jamison’s experience becoming a stepmother, they demonstrate that the best-selling author of The Empathy Exams continues to explore the limits of human connection.
R E A D In the new anthology Whose Story Is This?, the acclaimed essayist Rebecca Solnit— whom the New York Times has called
“the voice of the resistance”—explores the battle to shape the narrative of our era. “The real work,” she writes, “is not to convert those who hate us but to change the world so that haters don’t hold disproportionate power and so that others are not sucked into the nightmare.”
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D I S C O V E R N Y F W New York Fashion Week, kicking off on Friday, September 6, is a chance to discover fall’s most inspired trends, but we’re equally excited by the dynamic women who are running the show. Armed with ambition and suited-up with personal style that starts from the top with strong, bold hairstyles, fashion’s top designers, entrepreneurs, moguls and multi- hyphenates are bringing their unique vision and creative spirit to the runways and front rows this season. Their influence is unmatched, and their talent proves that there is even more to come. Go to page 155 to discover the next wave of New York talent.
PRESENTED BY TRESEMMÉ
L I S T E N The singer-songwriter Natasha Khan, known as Bat for Lashes, produces danceable, gauzy indie pop that, over four albums, has garnered her three Mercury Prize nominations. Her latest, Lost Girls, out September 6, is inspired by Los Angeles and the 1980s.
WAT C H For years, actress Jillian Bell has stolen scenes in projects like Eastbound & Down, Rough Night, and 22 Jump Street. She finally gets a starring vehicle of her own with Brittany Runs a Marathon, out August 23, a winningly unconventional rom-com about a woman getting her life together in NYC.
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S E E New Yorker art critic Peter Schjeldahl has called sculptor Rachel Harrison’s work “both the zestiest and the least digestible in contemporary art. It may also be the most important.” Decide for yourself when the Whitney Museum unveils the first full-scale survey of her 25- year career, which includes over 100 pieces, on October 25. (Through January 12, 2020; whitney.org)
CALENDAR A R T
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S E E Over the course of her influential career, visionary Japanese
artist Yayoi Kusama—whose work melds pop art with minimalism—has
produced more than 20 Infinity Mirror Rooms. Each is a psychedelic
sensory installation so enveloping that it’s possible to forget where you
end and the space begins. One of her latest, Love Is Calling, opens at ICA
Boston on September 24 alongside Beyond Infinity: Contemporary Art
After Kusama, which pairs her pieces with work by contemporaries like Louise Bourgeois, Tara Donovan,
and Ana Mendieta. (Through February 7, 2021; icaboston.org)
S E E Throughout legendary 93-year-old Betye Saar’s career, she has produced assemblages, collages, and installations that subvert racist stereotypes and touch on mysticism and memory, black power and technology. LACMA’s Betye Saar: Call and Response takes a novel approach to exploring her art, showcasing preliminary drawings from the sketchbooks she has kept throughout her life alongside finished works. (Through April 5, 2020; lacma.org)
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S E E Since the 1979 Iranian Revolution, Iranian-born artist Shirin Neshat has lived in self-imposed exile in the U.S. She didn’t have her first solo show until 1993, when she was 36, but she is now acclaimed for films, videos, and photographs that investigate, among other concerns, how political upheaval impacts interior lives. On October 19, The Broad in L.A. launches a career retrospective with 150 of her works. (Through February 16, 2020; thebroad.org)
LOVE IS
CALLING
(2013)
HOARDERS (2012)
LAND OF
DREAMS
(2019)
THE EDGE OF
ETHICS (2010)
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S E P T E M B E R V O L U M E X X X V N U M B E R 1
NO. 409 58 CALENDAR
122 THE TALENT
124 THE FEED
130 EDITOR’S LETTER
136 NINA’S EDIT
138 NEW ARRIVALS
Extend the summer with these floral add-ons
Front Row
145 THE POWER
OF FASHION
Tailored pantsuits are back in a big way. ELLE’s Véronique Hyland analyzes their runway return. Plus: The allure of the one- and-done boilersuit
154 THIS IS NEW YORK
Six breakout brands aim to push the industry forward. By Naomi Rougeau
164 INTO THE BLUE
Tiffany & Co. reinvests in the island nation Mauritius. Véronique Hyland reports
168 TREND:
CLEAN SWEEP
Embrace your inner germaphobe (yes, really)
170 TREND: EVERYTHING
IS ILLUMINATED
Vibrant hues revitalize black basics
173 TREND: SHE’S
ELECTRIC
Supercharge your look with retro- futuristic details
Accessories
175 CREATURE FEATURE
Faux fur meets Monsters, Inc. for a surprising seasonal mash-up
190 WHITE LIGHTNING
Diamanté accents in overdrive
DRESS, DOLCE & GABBANA, $2,845.
BELTS, BOTH, ST. JOHN, $595 EACH. C
O L
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R A L P H L A U R E N
r a l p h l a u r e n . c o m
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TODS.COM
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AN OPEN MIND IS THE BEST LOOK
SIMONE ROCHA
A PORTFOLIO BY GUS POWELL IN COLL ABORATION WITH JOEL MEYEROWITZ
CELEBRATING THE OPENING OF OUR NEWEST NORDSTROM FL AGSHIP AT 57 TH & BROADWAY, NYC
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S E P T E M B E R V O L U M E X X X V N U M B E R 1
NO. 409 236 JAWLINES
OF VICTORY
Cheryl Wischhover investigates the latest body part under surgical scrutiny
238 YOUR GARDEN
GROWS
Beauty goes weak-kneed for florals. Katie Becker reports
240 GROUP CHAT:
BEST CURLING
IRONS
Three pros weigh in. By Erin Reimel
242 THE GREAT
SUPPRESSION
Vox journalist Liz Plank examines the harried state of heterosexual relationships
Culture
247 FALL PREVIEW
Introducing our annual culture extravaganza: seven pages jam-packed with award-courting films, buzzy books, star-making performances, and more
Perspectives
260 THE REVENGE-
PORN WARRIOR
Attorney Carrie Goldberg trudges into battle with real- life trolls. In her new memoir, she opens up about her call to the courtroom. By Jessica Testa
264 GOD IS
LOVE, AND A
SORORITY, TOO
Hayley Phelan dives into the dizzying world of Hillsong, an Instagram-friendly megachurch enticing millennials to get spiritual
270 SHE CONTAINS
MULTITUDES
Molly Langmuir sits down with the New Yorker’s rising star, writer Jia Tolentino
274 ASK E. JEAN
Relationship hell? E. Jean Carroll to the rescue!
192 ROCK CANDY
Six jewelers share their love of carved stones
201 FORWARD,
MARCH
Introducing our favorite lug-soled boots, for real or proverbial slush
202 GLAM SQUAD
Supermodel Natalia Vodianova teams up with Chopard
204 THE LADY
BUNCH
On our radar: eight earth-toned handbags
Shops
207 UNDER COVER
Twenty-six dreamy overcoats for every aesthetic, from tweed dusters to futuristic puffers
Beauty
219 RUNWAY
TO ELLEWAY
Erin Reimel reports on fall’s most powerful trends: exaggerated lashes, manicured pixie cuts, and more
224 BEST OF
SEPTEMBER
By Katie Becker and Erin Reimel
226 ELLEWORD
Lauren Hutton plays our inaugural round of word association. By Kate Foster
232 INSTANT SKIN
CARE
New products promise to firm eyes, minimize pores, and reduce redness—all in mere minutes. Are they too good to be true? By Katie Becker
CAPE, $4,950, BLOUSE, $4,300, PANTS, $7,800, ALL, CHANEL. HOOP EARRING, CHARLOTTE CHESNAIS, $940 (FOR PAIR). T
E R
E N
C E
C O
N N
O R
S ;
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S E P T E M B E R V O L U M E X X X V N U M B E R 1
NO. 409 The Well
277 FORCE OF
NATURE
As Angelina Jolie revives Disney’s beloved antihero, Maleficent, the actress and humanitarian reflects on the power of wicked women. Photographed by Alexi Lubomirski. Styled by Elizabeth Stewart
286 UNDER THE
TUSCAN SUN
Photographer Cole Sprouse captures postcard-worthy scenes in the Italian countryside. Styled by Natasha Royt
302 LIP SERVICE
Dior’s Peter Philips unveils a sumptuous line of lip color, styling tips included. Photographed by Richard Burbridge. Styled by Jessica Dos Remedios
310 URBAN
LEGENDS
Mixed prints and look-at-me palettes find a fitting home in Manhattan’s cityscape. Photographed by Matthew Kristall. Styled by Rebecca Dennett
330 PARIS MATCH
Midcentury tweed takes a trip to the Seine. Photographed by Terence Connors. Styled by Marine Braunschvig
340 THE
ITALIAN JOB
Model Candice Swanepoel descends into the coveted cushions at Forlini’s. Photographed by Carin Backoff. Styled by Paul Cavaco
The Cover Looks
Newsstand Cover:
Angelina Jolie wears a dress and belt from Dior, bracelets from Cartier, and vintage earrings. Subscriber Cover:
Jolie wears a jumpsuit from Stella McCartney, aviators from Dolce & Gabbana, and hoop earrings from J. Hannah. For Jolie’s makeup look, try L’Essen- tiel Natural Glow Foundation in Very Light, Palette 5 Couleurs in L’Heure de Nuit, Eyebrow Kit in Universel, and Rouge G de Guerlain Lipstick in N°23. All, Guerlain. Photographed by Alexi Lubomirski (styled by Elizabeth Stewart; hair by Adam Campbell at the Wall Group; makeup by Toni G for Joe Blasco Cosmetics; mani- cure by Emi Kudo for OPI; set design by Jack Flanagan at the Wall Group; produced by Nath- alie Akiya at Kranky Produktions).
348 THINK BIG
Women are demanding space— from C-suites to presidential debates—and the runways are mimicking their battle cries. By Dayna Evans. Photographed by Zoey Grossman. Styled by Charles Varenne
End Notes
356 ELLE TRAVEL
St. Barts is back in business. By Brianna Kovan
358 HOROSCOPE
360 SHOPPING
GUIDE
364 ELLE-
CONOGRAPHY
DRESS, STELLA MCCARTNEY. M
A T
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S H
O P
B C
B G
.C O
M
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♥2019 Π&Γ
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T E R E N C E
C O N N O R S
@terenceconnors Photographer and
videographer
Provenance: Grew up between
Manhattan and Paris
Now: Montauk, New York
This month: Photographed “Paris Match” (page 330)
Bona fides: BFA, film, School of Visual Arts; has
worked on campaigns for brands such as
Sonia Rykiel, Tommy Hilfiger, Polo Ralph
Lauren, and Jo Malone
First gig: Videographer for a Paris skateboard
shop at age 15
Movie on repeat: Éric Rohmer’s 1967 French film La Collectionneuse
Lesson learned: Find something you love, and you’ll never work a day
in your life. “I find myself on jobs saying, ‘This trip is so fun,’ and clients will look at me like, ‘This isn’t
a trip. This is work.’�”
Parisian haunt: La Chaise au Plafond in the Marais
district. “It’s a little restaurant with outdoor seating, and it’s good for people watching.”
CONTRIBUTORS
Introducing five standout artists behind our most
ambitious issue of the year. By Zoe Bean
D AY N A E VA N S
@DaynaEvans_ Writer
Provenance: Philadelphia
Now: Brooklyn
This month: Wrote “Think Big” (page 348)
Bona fides: BA, creative writing, New York
University; has written for the New York Times, GQ, and New York magazine
First gig: Sales associate at PacSun
Reading: Braiding Sweetgrass: Indigenous
Wisdom, Scientific Knowledge and the
Teachings of Plants, by Robin Wall Kimmerer
Movie on repeat: 2011’s Fast Five
Current inspiration: Teen climate-change activists,
like Greta Thunberg
Power source: “Having a community of women
around me makes me feel powerful.”
Best habit: “I wake up really early, [which is when]
I do my best writing.”
Past-life persona: A surfer. “There’s something about San Diego and beaches—
even though I’m not a nature person at all.”
Upcoming: A nonfiction book (currently in the
proposal stage) about the history of women and their
relationship with bread
T H E R E S A H AY E S
@theresahayesofficial Model
Provenance: Brooklyn
Now: Los Angeles
This month: Stars in “Paris Match” (page 330). “While
we were having lunch, my 1998 Louis Vuitton
backpack was stolen, along with my passport, a little point-and-shoot camera, and my journal. I cried for
two minutes, wiped my tears, and went on
with the shoot.”
Bona fides: Modeled exclusively for Louis Vuitton for three seasons (2016– 2018); has since walked
the runway for the likes of Paco Rabanne, Valentino,
and Zimmermann
First gig: Sales associate at the Hollister on
Fifth Avenue
Reading: The Untethered Soul: The Journey Beyond
Yourself, by Michael A. Singer; The Energy of
Money: A Spiritual Guide to Financial and Personal
Fulfillment, by Maria Nemeth; and The Four
Agreements: A Practical Guide to Personal Freedom,
by Don Miguel Ruiz
Movie on repeat: The Matrix. “I honestly feel like
Neo these days.”
Past-life persona: “A bird, [maybe] a black hawk.”
Upcoming: A coconut-wax candle line, Blessed By T
J E S S I C A T E S TA
@jtes Reporter
Provenance: Phoenix
Now: Brooklyn
This month: Wrote “The Revenge-Porn Warrior” (page 260)
Bona fides: BA, journalism, and MA,
mass communication, Arizona State University; former national reporter
for BuzzFeed News
First gig: Cashier at a pool supply store. “I’d
talk to people about pH levels and chlorine.”
Reading: Random Family, by Adrian Nicole LeBlanc
Movie on repeat: Annihilation. “It was, like,
all women. There was only one man, and it was Oscar Isaac, which was allowed.”
Recent splurge: A blue wedding dress from Brooklyn designer Samantha Sleeper
Current inspiration: The female Democratic presidential candidates
Dream subject: Christine Blasey Ford. “If you’re
reading this, give me a call.”
Past-life persona: A museum curator. “But that’s such a pretentious answer!
Maybe I was a goldfish.”
Upcoming: An Oxygen TV adaptation of her 2018 BuzzFeed News article
“The Case Died With Her”
P E T E R P H I L I P S
@peterphilipsmakeup Makeup artist
Provenance: Antwerp, Belgium
Now: Paris
This month: Styled and created the makeup palette for “Lip Service” (page 302)
Bona fides: Studied graphic design at ESA Saint-Luc Bruxelles and
fashion at Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp;
currently Dior Makeup’s creative and image director
First gig: Cleaning his grandfather’s
charcuterie shop. “From five or six years old, we were all helping.”
Movie on repeat: Anything by Alfred Hitchcock
Lesson learned: “My generation was told the
sky was the limit, that you could do anything you wanted. We’re paying for that now. I wish we had been more careful with the environment.”
Past-life persona: A gardener on an
English estate
If he weren’t a makeup artist: “I’d design furniture, chandeliers, tables, chairs,
ingenious storage.”
The
Talent
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THE FEED
G E T S L I M E D
Once the stuff of Nickelodeon specials, the
shade is now a marker of street-style status.
Track this trend and more at ELLE.com.
CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: AT LONDON FASHION WEEK; MAYOWA NICHOLAS; KENDALL JENNER; AT NEW YORK FASHION WEEK; AT LONDON FASHION WEEK.
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J U
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M A
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W S
P E
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/G E
T T
Y I
M A
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S ;
N IC
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K IR
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; J E
N N
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: G
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R A
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FASHION
Senior Market Editor SARAH ZENDEJAS Credits Editor CAITLIN MULLEN
Market Editors STEPHANIE SANCHEZ, JADE VALLARIO Associate Market Editor KIA GOOSBY Assistant ROSIE JARMAN
FEATURES
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BEAUTY
Associate Beauty Editor MARGAUX ANBOUBA Assistant Beauty Editor ERIN REIMEL
ART AND DESIGN
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HEARST VISUAL GROUP
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COPY AND RESEARCH
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ike most of the world, I’ve long been fascinated by Angelina Jolie. Before I met her, I always thought there was something magnetic about her ability to blaze a trail and live without compromise. Now that I know her firsthand, I’m in awe of her
generosity and compassion. She graced my first cover as editor-in-chief of ELLE in March 2018, and now, a year and a half later, I’m very excited to work with her again for our cover story on page 278. She is one of those multifaceted women we love to embrace at ELLE.
What you might not know about Angelina is how involved she is when it comes to the process—whether it’s a shoot, or a film, or a cause. She follows through on her commitment; she will get on the phone with you herself to make sure that every detail is just right. That’s what makes her so impressive—she faces every challenge head-on.
This past February, when I went through my preventive double mastectomy, Angelina’s 2013 New York Times essay about her own de- cision to have the surgery resonated with me, and I drew a great deal of strength from her words.
We’ve seen so many versions of Angelina over the years, from her early wild-child days to her emergence as a philanthropic force and a director in her own right. She has made some nontraditional choices in her life, but she has always been her own person, and doesn’t worry unduly about what other people think of her.
Another woman with a similarly uncompromising attitude is Carrie Goldberg, the attorney who’s become known as the “troll hunter,” for helping clients fight revenge porn. (One client has called her “a feminist
guardian angel.”) Goldberg’s memoir, Nobody’s Victim, lifts the veil on the personal experiences that led her down this career path—namely, the assaults and abuse she herself suffered at the hands of men. On page260, Jessica Testa profiles a woman who’s managed to take some very trau- matic incidents and turn them into something positive for other women.
As Goldberg has seen up close, we are in a transitional time when powerful women are ostensibly celebrated, yet the culture at large still seems threatened by female authority. (Just look at the public reaction to some of our more outspoken freshman congresswomen.) Given the parade of power suits we saw on the runway, designers have been thinking about that question, too. In this, our “The Power of Fashion” issue, we go deep on what “power dressing” means today, and how it no longer automatically translates to shoulder pads and pinstripes. These days, there are myriad ways to look like a boss. But ultimately, it’s about the power of the woman behind the wardrobe.
@NINAGARCIA NINAGARCIA @NINAGARCIAOFFICIAL
POWER SOURCE
L
ANGELINA WITH HER DOGS: “THEY HAVE A
HABIT OF RUNNING AROUND THE BED
WHEN I’M READING— PARTICULARLY THE ROTTWEILER, WHO
THINKS HE’S SMALLER THAN HE IS.”
TRENCH COAT, GALVAN, $1,495.
SLIPDRESS, GINIA, $175. EARRINGS,
BULGARI. SANDALS, GIANVITO ROSSI,
$995. BAG, CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE, $2,250.
A L
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Nina Garcia is enchanted by
the tones and textures of Dior’s
Morocco-inspired cruise collection.
Desert Rose
M A R R A K E C H E X P R E S S
“No destination is too far-flung for Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri. In April, I headed to Marrakech to take in her cruise collection at the sixteenth-century El Badi Palace. Each piece felt perfect for a dream vacation, from the artisan-woven leather sandals and totes to the exquisitely detailed maxidresses.”
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: GARCIA AT EL BADI PALACE AHEAD OF DIOR’S CRUISE 2020 SHOW; GUEST SEATING FOR THE SHOW; A LOOK FROM THE COLLECTION.
BRACELET, DIOR.
AVIATORS, DIOR.
5 COULEURS EYESHADOW PALETTE IN INTENSIF-EYE, DIOR,
$63, DIOR.COM
SANDAL, DIOR.
BOOT, DIOR.
DIORSHOW ON STAGE LINER IN VINYL BLACK,
DIOR, $31, DIOR.COM
MESSENGER BAG, DIOR.
G A
R C
IA :
C O
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T E
S Y
O F
T H
E S
U B
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C T
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P H
A Ë
L D
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M O
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M O
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A N
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A IN
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A G
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: C
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Y O
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F O
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, S
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NEW ARRIVALS
The perfect companion to Dolce & Gabbana’s boudoir-chic fall collection? A loved-up carryall in red rose brocade with a heart-shaped ex-voto. Handbag, Dolce & Gabbana, $1,695, select Dolce & Gabbana boutiques nationwide.
T H E
I T BAG
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w w w .a k r is .c o m
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NEW ARRIVALS
Anyone who follows Gucci’s Alessandro Michele on Instagram knows the creative director’s fascination with antiquity, be it his own taxidermy- and sculpture-filled Roman apartment or his frequent vintage shopping excursions on the city’s Via del Governo Vecchio. So it should come as no surprise that Michele’s debut high jewelry collection is teeming with museum-worthy baubles, such as these
shoulder-grazing, botanical-inspired beauties. Rubellite, tourmaline, and pink sapphire one-of-a-kind earrings, Gucci, gucci.com.
T H E
STAT E M E N T E A R R I NG
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o s c a r d e l a r e n t a .c
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NEW ARRIVALS
Just in time for late-summer garden parties: Tabitha Simmons’s velvet-ribboned, retro chintz lace-up for Coach, no green thumb required. Sandal, Coach x Tabitha Simmons, $150, coach.com.
T H E
SA N DA L
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FRONT ROW MODELS BACKSTAGE AT GIVENCHY, FALL 2019.
The Power
of Fashion
IN AN ERA WHEN WOMEN ARE FIGHTING, once again, for our hard-won access to choice, it might seem counterintuitive that the suit—in its most masculine, tailored, gray flannel incarnation—is mak- ing a comeback. But come back it did, on female dandies in bow ties at Dolce & Gabbana, girls with cravats at Burberry, twenty-first-century Katharine Hepburns at Givenchy, even the cool kids at Alexander Wang (where a loose gray version, worn over a shiny black vest, served as a hipster-ized version of the three-piece suit).
There’s a well-worn saying that “three is a trend.” But when it’s more of an avalanche, like this season’s parade of suits, it’s clear that some kind of reclamation of power is going on. In this case, that means power in its most literal form—suits with ’40s tailoring or the strong shoulders of an ’80s corporate raider. But worn with a touch of irony, or accessorized with a slice of bare midriff, torso, or leg, a look like this says, “Yes, I can try on these traditional markers of strength, but I won’t change everything about myself in the process.”
In other words, you don’t have to start dressing like a corporate drone. Both traditional and transgressive power looks abound this
By Véronique Hyland
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FRONT ROW D E E P D I V E
season. On the trad side, Giorgio Armani, who dressed Hol- lywood types in softly tailored power suits back in the ’80s, is paying tribute to his legacy with his New Normal collection, which celebrates suiting in all its forms (see page 58). Mean- while, some women, Olivia Stren reports, are looking to the boilersuit and its one-and-done appeal as their new power suit (page 150). Think of it as the fashion equivalent of having it all.
Of course, shoulder pads and mechanic’s overalls aren’t
makes you feel most powerful.
There’s a reason some of the chicest women around have long borrowed from the boys. From classic dinner jackets to banker pinstripes, the ease and instant polish a suit offers is unrivaled.
Toss in a few unexpected twists, like Burberry’s monogram shirt- and-tie combo or Dolce & Gabbana’s boudoir-inspired finishes,