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Boe shield arduino

29/03/2021 Client: saad24vbs Deadline: 2 Day

Page 1 of 22

Arduino Robots

Robot Kit Parts List

(1) Metal Chassis (2) Push Button Activators

(2) Servo Motors w/ Cross Wheels (2) IR Receivers

(1) Control Board (1) Piezo Speaker

(1) Dual-Sided Screwdriver (1) Cotter Pin

(2) Large Plastic Wheels (1) Rubber O-Ring/Grommet

(1) Plastic Ball (2) LED Holders (2 pieces of black plastic)

(4) Rubber Bands (2) 3 Prong Plug

(2) Wire Sensor Arms (1) Battery Holder

Jumper Wire Set:

6 – Blue

6 – Black

4 – Yellow

4 – Red

Screws:

5 – Long Phillips Screws

8 – Medium Phillips Screws

8 – Short Phillips Screws

2 – Flat Head Phillips Screws

Resistors: Color Code:

8 – 220 Ω R,R,B,G

4 – 470 Ω Y,P,B,G

2 – 1K Ω B,BL,R,G

2 – 2K Ω R,BL,R,G

2 – 4.7K Ω Y,P,R,G

4 – 10K Ω B,BL,O,G

Rods & Spacers:

4 – Long Aluminum Extension Rods

2 – Short Aluminum Extension Rods

3 – White Spaces

Nuts & Washers:

10 – Aluminum Nuts

Page 2 of 22

Robot

On the Topside of the Chassis Parts List: (1) robot chassis (2) 1″ standoffs (removed from BOE Shield) (2) pan‐head screws, 1/4″ 4‐40 (removed from BOE Shield) (1) rubber grommet, 13/32″

Instructions:

• Remove the 1″ aluminum standoffs from the BOE Shield, and save the standoffs and screws. • Insert the 13/32″ rubber grommet into the hole in the center of the chassis. • Make sure the groove in the outer edge of the rubber grommet is seated on the metal edge of the hole. • Use two 1/4″ of the 4‐40 screws to attach two of the standoffs to the top front of the chassis as shown. • Save the other two standoffs and screws for a later step.

Mount the Servos on the Chassis Parts List: (2) BOE Shield‐Bot Chassis, partially assembled. (2) Parallax continuous rotation servos (8) pan Head Screws, 3/8″ 4‐40

(8) nuts, 4‐40 masking tape pen

Page 3 of 22

Instructions: • Decide how you want to mount your servos from the two options described and pictured below.

1. Outside‐forward (left) — the servos' mounting tabs seat outside the chassis, with their potentiometer access ports facing toward the front of the chassis. This allows easy access to adjust the potentiometer on an assembled robot, and also makes servo replacement quick. However, this gives the BOE Shield‐Bot a longer, wider wheel base, so it will be a little less nimble on maneuvers and may need more pulses to make turns.

2. Inside‐backward (right) — the servos' mounting tabs seat inside the chassis, with their potentiometer access ports facing towards the battery pack. This positions the axles close to the center of the BOE Shield‐Bot, for maximum agility. If you are diligent about centering your servos before building your BOE Shield‐Bot, this causes no problems.

• Attach the servos to the chassis using the Phillips screws and nuts.

• Use pieces of masking tape to label the servos left (L) and right (R), as shown.

5‐Cell Battery Pack Parts List: (2) flat‐head Phillips screws, 3/8″ 4‐40 (2) 1" standoffs (removed from BOE Shield previously) (1) 5‐cell battery pack with 2.1 mm center‐positive plug

Instructions: • Place the empty battery pack inside the chassis positioned as shown above.

• Insert the two flat‐head screws through the inside of the battery pack. Use the smaller set of holes that line up with the chassis mounting holes for the front standoffs, shown by the arrows.

• From the top of the chassis, thread a 1" standoff on each screw and tighten.

Page 4 of 22

Mounting the Wheels Parts List: (1) 1/16″ cotter pin (1) tail wheel ball (2) rubber band tires (2) plastic machined wheels (2) screws saved when removing the servo horns

Your wheels and tires may look different - that's okay!

The style shown above is being phased out. The new ones have finer spokes and O‐ring tires. Both styles work just fine. Instructions:

The robot’s tail wheel is merely a plastic ball with a hole through the center. A cotter pin holds it to the chassis and functions as an axle for the wheel.

• Line up the hole in the tail wheel with the holes in the tail portion of the chassis.

• Run the cotter pin through all three holes (chassis left tail wheel, chassis right).

• Bend the ends of the cotter pin apart so that it can’t slide back out of the hole.

• Press each plastic wheel onto a servo output shaft, making sure the shaft lines up with, and sinks into, the wheel’s recess, then secure with the saved servo screws.

• Stretch each rubber band tire and seat it on the outer edge of each wheel.

Page 5 of 22

When you are done, your completed chassis will look like one of the pictures below. 

Left: "Outside‐forward" servos Right: "Inside‐backward" servos

Mounting the Shield

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